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Fuji Velvia
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No sun, no fun? Don't kid yourself. A lot of us think of night time being dark and dreary and prefer to stay indoors - but do you realise what you are missing out on. When light starts to fade it's the perfect time to grab the camera and explore the magical scenery that the night brings us.

Urban landscape can be a real bore to photograph during the day; the dull grey buildings are lifeless and can sometimes leave you feeling as stiff as the buildings themselves. But when light from the day starts to fade our cities and towns are turned into a magical vista of outstanding light jumping out to be photographed.

So do you have the skills to take successful night time portraits? If not, the following tips are here to help you improve.

The first thing to decide is what film to use. If you are shooting static subjects such as buildings or street signs a slow film is recommended - the Fuji Velvia with an ISO of 50 or 100 will work best. If you are shooting fast moving subjects use a fast film - ISO 400

There is no lens that will help to get better night time images. It is best to carry a variety. Make sure you have a telephoto lens. This will help to zoom in on buildings and get rid of any unwanted dark areas.

Use the same composition rules that you use when taking landscape pictures.

Lead with lines: leading with lines into the main part of the scene will draw your viewers attention into your image. These lines don't have to be straight. Lines, such as streetlights, the light from moving traffic, or any fences that are brightly lit may work successfully.

Foreground interest: Simple foreground objects will give your night-time image a greater sense of depth. This is the same as if you are photographing a landscape image during the day.

Natural frames: Frame your scene with the elements all around you. This will focus attention on the main part of the picture. Example: If you are taking an image of a building use the dark buildings around it to frame your image.

Remember, always use a tripod. Your exposure time is going to be long - it's impossible to get sharp images at night with a hand-held camera.

Exposure: This is probably the hardest part of taking night time images. How do we calculate the proper exposure? Colour temperature varies when working with artificial light, so different exposure times are necessary. It's best to bracket your shots to get the perfect result. Don't be afraid to use plenty of film to get the perfect result.

If you are interested in photographing the moon, use an ISO of 100 - shoot with a shutter speed 1/125 and use an aperture of f/11.

Safety: When working at night you need to be visible. This is for your own safety. Don't take risks for an image. A lone person walking around a building may draw attention. Seek permission, if possible, before you start your photo shoot. Stay clear from restricted areas.

Many buildings are best photographed at night, if possible get shooting when there is some detail left in the sky. You don't need the most expensive camera on the market to get great night images - bring plenty of film and a good tripod.

TJ Tierney is an award winning photographer and a freelance writer. To find out more information visit his photography site and his photography forum.

Top Five Important Photo Accessories

There is a lot of photography accessories on the market today - some are very useful, but most of them are a waste of money. Here are five of the most important accessories for landscape photography

Tripod: A tripod is important for one main reason, keeping your images sharp. You’ll want to select a small aperture to maximise depth-of-field, so you should be using a shutter speed of less than 1/60 second. It’s impossible to get a sharp image holding your camera in your hand at these slow speeds.

When choosing a tripod pick one made out of carbon fibres, these are light to carry but are sturdy in the ground. Choose a tripod that the legs will spread out far, this will help to optimise the strength of your support.  

Filters: A small selection of filters is well worth packing when heading off for a trip. They don’t take up too much space and will definitely add a bit of spice to your images. A polarizing filter should be top of the list, while a few Neutral Density filters will certainly help with tough exposures. A 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 will help with exposure without affecting colour.  

Bring a few warm-up filters to help when the light is cool. The 81-series are the best choice, which will give your images an extra bit of life. There’s a large amount of filters on the market today; these are the most important filters for landscape photography.

Correct Film: Fuji Velvia is an obvious choice for me when it comes to shooting landscapes. This is a slide film that is high in saturation and is perfect for capturing the colour of all seasons. It comes in two speeds of ISO 50 and ISO 100.

It’s always handy to have a few rolls of Black and White film in the bag. You never know when you see a scene and know that it’s perfect for B/W. Whichever film you choose, bring plenty of rolls; don’t be caught in the middle of nowhere without film.

If you are shooting with a Digital SLR bring plenty of memory.  

Cable Release: If your camera has a connection for a cable release you should buy one. It is a perfect accessory to minimise the risk of camera shake - especially if you are taking long exposures. It doesn’t take up too much room and is extremely light.

Light Meter: All modern day cameras have light meters built into them, but if you are serious about landscape photography it’s advisable to have a hand-held light meter. These are small and of light-weight, and when used correctly are extremely accurate.

These are the most important bits and pieces for your camera bag; other important accessories include spare batteries, a grey card and a few spare lenses.

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About the Author

I am Aarif sagaciti from mumbai.

What are some higher quality films?

I've been currently using OTC films, standard Kodak 200 and 400 and standard Fuji 200 and 400.

I think I am ready to move on. To me, those films dull most colours and pale things out and their depth of colour isn't what it could be.

I was told to check out the Fuji Velvia 50 and the Fuji Velvia 100F. Supposedly they produce colours that are more true to life compared to the cheaper mass produced OTC ones.

FYI, I am using a Minolta Maxxum 7000i and am looking to better my photography.

btw, I am no means a pro-photographer, I am probably intermediate at best, but I would like to try and get deeper levels of colours and clearer images without resorting to scanning and post processing.

Any advice would help a lot.

Thanks
I do mostly landscapes. If I get up the nerve I might direct you to my flickr account so you can all laugh at me

http://photo.net/equipment/film

Endangered shutterbugs: Film enthusiasts appreciate effort required to take a good picture
Heather Coble uses a Nikon FM10 when she shoots pictures.

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