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External factors affect the value and the quality of jewelry, especially diamonds. For an average person, a gem looks like just any other gem. But to the experienced eye, he knows the differences between a rare stone to one that is not-so-rare.

Therefore, we strongly recommend jewelry enthusiasts to have a keen eye on what is authentic to what is fraud. They should also be on their toes when it comes to the fraudulent practices involving jewelry. They should know the facts of the stones and verify it with the experts.

Jewelry enthusiasts do not have to be gemologists. Neither do they have to be fearful when buying jewelry. They just have to be aware of the fraud exchanges and gem misrepresentation in jewelry markets.

Switching the Stones - Stone switching often occurs and this is very disturbing for the buyer because the jewelry loses its value. It is also hard to make accusations because the jeweler can deny easily deny the allegations if the buyer does not have proof.

There are jewelers who take advantage of naive customers who do not pay close attention to the gems they are buying. The normal customer purchases the highest quality regardless of the need for it to be repaired or appraised. Sometimes, it may be the highest-valued gem there but it is in need of these two procedures. Therefore its value degenerates but the buyer does not notice this because she is enamored by its sparkle.

Mounting is important because this can make or break the deal. An unethical jeweler merely switches the stones and replaces them with something similar for the untrained eye. This is usually a stone with lesser quality. This tactic generates the jeweler thousands of dollars and its tax free. Just imagine the gold earrings and the watch batteries they must sell in order to come up with the same price. No wonder they do it with jewelry.

In order for you to prevent this from happening, take note of these suggestions:

1. You have to know your gems. Note their colors, girdles and clarity (if they have chips or scratches, their natural appearance, etc.) You have to remember the locations of the following as if they were their birth marks. You can observe these by using loupes. You can also document these for future reference.

2. It is best to write these down. Record the characteristics of the stone on the receipt the jeweler gives you in the store. Do this before you leave. Sometimes, stores do not have enough time to give the accurate clarity and color grades but they should still note the visible characteristics. This documentation serves as evidence, just in case switching takes place. It also prevents it from happening.

3. If the buyer has a diagram or the photograph of the gemstone, he must ask the jeweler if this can serve as a good enough representation of the product.

4. Clean the gem before it is repaired or appraised. By examining the stone and remembering the condition that it is in, you will be able to recognize it after it is given back to you.

5. Be very wary of jewelers whose repair services are of low prices. If its too good to be true, it probably is. Maybe this jeweler has no experience. Then again, give him the benefit of the doubt. Maybe he is just honest.

6. If possible, establish an ethical relationship with your jeweler so that he will be more trustworthy. This can also lessen the chances of switching.

A Gem with Laser Inscriptions - If you are lucky to get gem stones that have laser inscription, then this can be a feature which will help you be aware whether the stone has been switched. Whenever you take the stone to any repair shop or store, tell the person there that the gem has a laser inscription. You can also ask them to examine it under the microscope so that you and the person both agree.

Therefore, when the stone is returned to you, you can examine the stone and check whether the inscription is still there. In that case, you will know that the stone is yours. You have to do these things right away to ensure that you are not cheated.

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Which Pearl Is Fake And Which Is Real

This article is about real pearls, both natural and cultured. First, the term 'pearl' should be applied only to natural pearls, formed in a mollusk when some event in nature induces the oyster or mussel to form a pearl. These pearls are quite rare and are the pearls of antiquity before pearl farmers learned to culture pearls. Freshwater pearls fished from the rivers in the USA are natural pearls, but now-a-days, most freshwater pearls are also cultured in freshwater pearl farms.

In any event, naturally forming or cultured, such pearls are formed in the oyster or mussel and are not fakes. The real difference in the totally natural pearl and the cultured pearls is what makes the pearl start to grow and the thickness of the nacre. Nacre is the pearly layers that make a pearl so lovely. The natural pearl will have very thick nacre, generally forming in concentric rings around some starting source or irritation to the mollusk. A large natural pearl is very, very rare. Cultured pearls generally use a 'core' of mother-of-pearl, the shell of the mollusk.

The bead core goes into the mollusk and nacre is formed around the core. The core determines the overall shape of the pearl. How long the oyster is allowed to let the pearl grow determines the thickness of the nacre. Thicker nacre is better. Best of all is thick nacre and a smooth, almost blemish free surface. Pearls grown inside the mussel or oyster do have a gritty feel to the tooth.

Fake pearls are made by coating a core of some sort (mother-of-pearl, plastic, etc.) with a plastic, a kind of paint containing ground fish scales or other stuff that look pearly to the eye. Generally, the fakes do not have a gritty feel to the tooth. Most may be identified with a little practice and a 10x jewelers loupe or microscope. The way to do it is to compare real pearls with some known fakes. The fakes almost always show a grittier look to the surface and not the more smoothly formed natural nacre.

The look is grittier but the feel to a tooth is smoother. After some practice comparisons, most fakes are fairly easily identified. Still, some are hard to detect without very thorough testing sometimes using solvents and acids which attack the real pearl nacre but not the plastic fakes and visa versa.

Other than that, a look at the drilled holes in the beads will help. Since the pearl is formed naturally without a hole, the hole must be drilled. The surface of the pearl at the drill hole will not 'sink in' or 'rise up' as is seen in many fakes that are formed and coated with the holes already made to the core. In the real pearl, the nacre will be smooth with the drill hole and might even be chipped a bit. Some folks recommend having a dentist do an x-ray to see what is inside.

Still, unless a person is very, very familiar with reading the images the results are very iffy. A core will look like a core whether in a fake or a cultured pearl. A core will not be present to any large extent in a pearl formed freely in the ocean but those pearls just are not around or to be had except in very small sizes.

Using a good loupe (hand held magnifier) of 10 power is likely the best home test. Of course, try the teeth first! Then look at the drill holes and the surface compared to a good cultured pearl. There is not a one-in-all test I can recommend. Some of this will simply require some 'pearls' of real and fakes for comparison. When you look through a 10x maginfier at the surface of most fakes, the surface might look gritty, uneven, "orange peel" as in paints or even flaked off in small places.

There is a difference difficult to describe. The comparison of the nacre of a pearl to the fake surface is a good indication for use at home, following your teeth, of course. Again, look for the rising or falling surface at the drill holes, like a "painted surface" has sunk into the hole or been pulled up from it.

Even the jewelers are fooled once in a while but not often. Have you seen Mabe pearls? These are the large 'half pearls' often seen in rings and pendants. Some years ago some really good fakes hit the market and were being sold at very competitive prices -- that is, compared to the real ones. Many were sold and bought as the real thing! The testing for these required disassembly of the fake mabes plus solvent and acid tests. A lot of buyers were taken in on this one, likely never to know they bought and later sold fake mabe pearls.

If you get pearls and you are not sure if they are fake or real and you have a hard time to tell them apart, go to you closest jewelry store and talk to them. See if they can run some of the test that I just menched to you. They will be able to tell you if the pearls are fake or not. But like is said it is very hard to tell some of the real ones from the fake ones. You need to be careful when you are shopping around for any kind of jewelry and make sure that you go to a jewelry store that you know are good. Recommended a real pearl Jewelry online store http://www.qifujew.com/

About the Author

Qifu Pearl Processing Co.,Ltd. combines the design with processing, domestic wholesale pearls and export of Akoya pearl cultivation, Akoya , South Sea Pearl freshwater pearl and pearl jewelry series of products. It is one of the earliest established and most competitive enterprises in domestic pearl process industry with over 20 years.

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where and how much??ty

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GIA gives law enforcement crash course in gemology
Carlsbad, Calif.-At the request of the Federal Bureau of Investigation, the Gemological Institute of America campus in Carlsbad, Calif., hosted a group of special agents and detectives hailing from law enforcement agencies worldwide and provided a two-week crash course in gemology, including lessons in the Four Cs and how to read a gemological grading report.

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