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Lens Parts
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So you've just come back from the camera shop with all the information on why you need more megapixels for your camera. Your current compact camera has 8.1 megapixels and the salesman says that you need to upgrade to the new 10.1 megapixel model to really improve your images. Rubbish! Here's why you don't need to.

Because digital cameras are often classified by their number of megapixels, the megapixel rating of a camera is often used as a measure of picture quality. This is a totally wrong concept and a myth. There are a number of factors that determine the quality of a camera and megapixels is really an insignificant part. 10.1 megapixels on a cheap compact camera and 10.1 megapixels on an expensive digital SLR and poles apart. As a comparison they mean nothing.  If they meant anything then why is their such a large difference in price. The difference in price between a compact and an SLR should immediately say to you that there are other factors to be considered.

Here's what really matters:

1. Quality of the camera lens

It costs a lot of money to build a quality lens with high quality glass. If the camera is cheap it means the lens is cheap. Even if it had 36 megapixels the quality of your image is going to be average. Camera manufacturers cannot afford to put quality glass in a low quality camera. Even with digital SLRs that have interchangeable lenses the difference between entry level lenses and pro lenses is huge and measured in thousands of dollars.

2. Quality of the camera build

The parts that go into building a good quality digital camera cost a lot of money to develop and therefore the camera will cost more. The cost difference between the plastic or aluminium and high quality magnesium alloy is vast. This is more so with digital SLRs. When comparing the way a shutter button or dial feels on an entry level to a pro SLR you will feel a dramatic difference which again is reflected in the price.

3. Quality of the sensor

How your sensor handles light and the resulting noise is dependent on the quality and build of the CCD or CMOS sensor and its ISO rating. Try taking a photo with a lot of shadow and you will see that in darker parts of the image there are flecks of colour and a more grainy look. This is noise. The more expensive cameras will have far less noise or sometimes no noise at all compared to cheaper compact cameras. This degrades the quality of an image even with a good lens. 

4. Quality of the processor

Each camera has a computer chip called the processor which takes the digital information received through the sensor and processes it into an image. The way this is processed affects the overall speed and quality of the image. The more powerful and complex the processor the better quality image and of course the higher the cost of the camera. Again the more megapixels processed by a low quality processor will continue to give a low quality image.

It is so easy to use one aspect of a camera to judge a camera's quality and this is what manufacturers and sales people have done. It's far easier than explaining a number of complementary factors but makes the explanation a myth. One needs to almost quadruple the megapixels of a camera's sensor to make an obvious improvement. Even just doubling the megapixels is only going to give you a subtle increase in quality. And this will again only really play a part if all of the other quality factors are increased as well.

So how do you know what to buy? The answer is forums and review websites. Go check out what the reviewers have to say and then read the forums and hear what people who have bought the camera you are interested in have to say. 

Use your natural instincts and you'll know when a sales person is pulling the wool over your eyes. No manufacturer can afford to sell high quality for low prices. This is why many digital SLR manufacturers sell you a kit lens with the camera and not one of high quality, to save costs.

So bottom line, use your instincts. When someone wants to sell you a BMW or Mercedes for a Suzuki price the alarm bells should start ringing.

Do you want to learn more about photography in a digital world? I've just completed a brand new e-course delivered by e-mail. Download it here for free: http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/ To learn how you can take your photography from ordinary to outstanding visit http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/21steps.htm

Wayne Turner has been teaching photography for 25 years and has written three books on photography.

Discount Contact Lens

When you go out to buy contact lens make sure that you buy them on the advice of your doctor or any qualified eye care practitioner. Eyes are of great importance to us. Lens can be a source of infection in our eyes. Getting a lens that suits you eye and is safe for your eyes is very important. There are number of options available to you. Discount contact lens are a good option for you if you are looking for lens that are cheap and suit your pocket.

Selling of contact lens without a prescription is violation of the laws. But the discount contact lens are available to you without the prescription also. So, it should be made certain that you buy these contact lens from a reputable company.

There are number of web sites today that help you to buy lens that are according to your pocket. But the main reason of concern is the quality of such lens. Before the offers made by various companies about the discount contact lens allure you, make proper research about the quality of the lens that they sell. It is always preferable to buy discount contact lens from an optician or companies that you know and are of the name you are familiar with. If you are buying online, it is good to check the testimonials of the users of the product. It is good to research the Internet to know the views of the people who have used the discount contact lens before you get to buy a pair for your self.

About the Author

Buy Discount Contact Lens at Spect Glasses.
For More Information Visit www.statuseyecare.com .
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What's the difference between the parts of a bifocal lens?

In other words, why would someone need different focal correction for near vs far or reading vs driving? Is it correcting two unrelated focal defects? Or do such defects have a characteristic that the same defect needs different correction for near vs far?

A bifocal lens is actually two different prescriptions cut into the one lens. The bifocal portion is actual a magnification lens, and the upper portion can either correct for near or far vision, as needed. They are a form of progressive lens, and originally bifocals required two different convex lens to be cut and then stuck together. Nowdays, of course, they don't have to do that. The magnification usually starts at a line just even with the bottom eyelid, and progressively provides stronger magnification as the lens goes downwards. Presbyopia really only affects vision within 3 feet or so of the eyes, when the pupil will naturally drop so you can read/focus on something you have in your hands. That vision may still need correction for objects at a distance, or even nearer- which you would be looking straight ahead or sideways to focus on. So the upper lens can be ground to provide that correction, in the direction the eyes will be directed. In some cases, people can have normal vision except for the presbyopia, and can have a bifocal with no additional correction in the upper lens at all. The reading glasses sold in stores, on the other hand, are only ground for the magnification part of the bifocal. The magnification is measured in standard units, usually in gradiations of .25, and you can purchase straight bifocal/reading glasses usually as low as .75, for folks who really only need them for reading. Or folks who don't want the giveaway look of a bifocal lens. There are also trifocals, another variation of the progressive lens for folks with presbyopia, but who are in need of correction for both near and far vision. Those are a bit trickier to adjust and adapt to, because you don't have the correction you need for all three problems in any one section of the lens. As a rule, the upper portion of the lens will correct far vision, the middle section will correct for near vision, and of course the bifocal will be an insert at the bottom. In short, you are talking about correcting three different visual defects- and having one doesn't automatically infer having one, or both of the others. I've worn bifocals since I was a teen, but didn't require correction for my near vision until some years ago. I worn reading glasses for many years, and only needed them for reading, needlework, or eventually when I became a nurse- to focus on the syringes and such. Until I became a nurse, I didn't wear them full time- didn't need to. Even then, I only wore them at work full time. Otherwise, I wore them as I needed.

Digital Optical Comparator utilizes LED technology..
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