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Rear Cap
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The Model T Speedster didn't figure in Ford's line-up. In fact, in the early nineteen twenties there wasn't much in the way of sports models the ordinary working guy could afford. The name "sports car" was still in the future, and so was Ford's first V-8.

Human nature and human ingenuity didn't take long to turn the Model T ford's basic transportation into something a lot more exciting, though. So if you were around in 1920 and you wanted to make the Tin Lizzie hotter and wilder, just what could you do?

"Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline Engine Encyclopedia" tells you exactly what to do.

The best thing to do to the body was to just replace it with a raceabout type. You could build your own or you could buy "a complete outfit of radiator, hood, floorboards, rear gasoline tank, and body" for around $100.

The new body wasn't just for looks; it made the Model T go faster by making it lighter, cutting down the frontal area, and streamlining it. Bodies could be just a cover over the engine with bucket seats out in the open and the fuel tank and spare tires behind like the Mercer and Stutz, or they could be streamlined from front to back, with a nicely tapered tail.

Just changing the body could add 10 to 15 miles an hour to the top speed.

Sometimes it was necessary to remove a leaf from each spring because of the lighter body, and you had to lower the steering column because the new sporty body sat lower.

If the hot-rodded Model T Ford was to be used for race-track work only, the suspension could be lowered, and there were several ways of doing that. The best way was to have a new front axle made which effectively raised the axle spindles and lowered the front end. A cheaper method was riveting pieces of channel iron on the front of the frame, letting them stick out in front about 5 inches.

The back could be lowered by cutting off the side members in front of the rear axle and installing modified steel forgings.

Hotting up the engine was just as important as changing the body, and there was a lot you could do Ford's early four-banger.

Heavy cast-iron pistons didn't like to rev too high, so aluminum ones could be used. If you were financially challenged and brave as well, you could lighten the cast iron pistons by drilling holes in them! You could do the same to the con-rod, drilling holes in it and carefully dressing it with a file. (Don't try this on your car!)

Raising the compression wasn't hard. You could use an earlier cylinder head with shallower combustion chambers, or you could plane 1/8 inch of the existing cylinder head. You could even buy an after-market sixteen-valve high-compression head for the Ford Model T.

The breathing could be improved by using larger valves, and there were several types of high-speed cams available. For racing, stronger valve springs were recommended but they were noisier and likely to break valves, though you could buy tungsten steel valves as well.

A larger carburetor "say of the 1 ¼ inch size" and a larger intake manifold were both par for the course to get more power.

For a free flow exhaust the muffler could be removed for racing, and for road use you could remove the baffles or drill extra holes in them. To get that racing car rumble from the four-cylinder Model T engine, you could run the exhaust pipe into a larger cylindrical amplifying chamber, with a metal cap in the end with several holes drilled in it.

It was good practice to add an auxiliary oiling system and better cooling because of the extra power and higher revs. Better brakes were a must as well. The rear brakes of the Model T weren't that good, so you were looking at around $16 a set for the best aftermarket brakes.

For a moderate price your Ford Model T Speedster could most likely hit 70 mile per hour, and if you wanted to spend more money, you could pick up a few more mph.

So it seems our grandfathers and great-grandfathers weren't all that different to us when they were young. Nowadays young guys hot up engines, upgrade the running gear and change the bodies. Over ninety years ago, when my granddad had returned from the war to end all wars, young guys were hotting up engines, upgrading running gear, and changing bodies. The Ford Model T and the new after-market industry gave them the opportunity.

Warren Newson is editor of the classic car picture site motoring-classics.com and lawnmowercountry.com, where you can buy Murray lawn mower parts to keep your Murray mower in tip top shape.

Special Tips for Hair Care

Some tips of hair care:

Here are some useful hair tips to nurse your hair in daily life. All of them were collected by myself, I want to share it with everybody and hope it could gives help to you.

To help maintain healthy hair: Get a good night sleep and eat a balanced diet.

Backcombing: Work in small sections, holding the hair ends at a 90 degree angle to the head. Run comb through hair from ends to root in smooth, gentle strokes for maximum effect;

Fine tooth rattail: Precise teasing or backcombing;

Dip pik: Great detangler for wet hair;

Create curls on a flat iron: Place the hair section between the plates as normal. with the plates closed, rotate the iron 2 complete revolutions and then slide to the end of the hair section as normal;

Add volume on a flat iron: Flips or curves hold hair between plates and wrap around outside of top plate;

Straightening with comb: Helps guide hair and eliminates tangles for smoother and faster straightening. Comb your hair under the flat iron while straightening to prevent fuzz;

Create an alluring up do: After removing the iron from the hair, re-roll each curl and pin up randomly. Leave a few trailing tendrils. For sexy, tousled curls make small vertical curls in hair. Separate curls with fingers. For tighter curls, use a small barrel. for loose curls, use larger barrel. Section hair evenly and comb each section before winding. Place curling iron midway up hair section; spread hair evenly between spoon and barrel. Or avoid crimped ends, securely wind hair under spoon in direction of desired curl;

Sexy and tousled curls: Make small vertical curls in hair. Separate curls with fingers. for tighter curls use a small 3/4" barrel, for loose curls use a larger barrel. Section hair evenly, and comb each section before winding. Place curling iron midway up hair section; spread hair evenly between spoon and barrel. to avoid crimped ends, securely wind hair under the spoon in the direction of desired curl;

Curling iron: Use low heat settings for curling extra fine, damaged, or dry hair;

Total styling: Begins with hair that is clean and dry;

Hair dryer: Select lower heats and speed for finishing hairstyle or for drying permed, color-treated, or fragile hair;

Hair dryer: Use higher heat for initial drying, lowering the heat as you finish styling. Use Cool Shot to set curls or style in place;

Hair dryer: Initially when hair is wet, use dryer on high speed without the concentrator nozzle. dry hair until it is slightly damp. Attach concentrator, using medium to high speed to style and/or straighten hair. always blow dry hair starting from root down to ends. use cool shot button to lock in style;

Hair dryer: Use medium to high speed to style or straighten hair. blow dry hair starting from the root down to ends to seal the cuticles. Result use slim concentrator nozzle for detailed styling;

Lint filter: Take off the dryers rear cap and clean any lint or hair caught in screen. it improves dryers airflow and takes strain off motor, improving life of dryer.

Always treat hair right with superior quality shampoos and conditioners prior to styling.

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I AM ARTICLE WRITER.

How do I remove my rear lens cap from my camera?

I have a Tokina SZ-X 282 camera lens and I am having some difficulty removing the rear lens cap. Nothing seems to be broken, but several people have tried to take it off but nothing is working.
I have a Canon AE-1 Program
I didn't mention it before, but I don't need assistance with how to put the lens cap ON. I know how to do that. I just purchased this lens and it was sent to me this way. I have not been able to remove the rear lens cap yet.

You have to turn it the correct direction ... my guess is that it was turned too tight and now you will need some kind of tool to remove it. What camera do you have? Each ones lens/connection is different.

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