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I know there are some photographers that still like to pick up that trusty ol' SLR, insert a roll of film and get out there and experiment in the field. Then approach with grinning anticipation as they pick up the developed film from their favorite photo shop and have the person behind the counter ask, "How did you take that picture? It's awesome!"

It is this photography 'purest' to whom I appeal (this time) - the ones that still like using film every now and then. Most photographers have Digital SLRs (DSLR - "et moi aussi"). I know you can create this effect with Photoshop, after the fact; but having creative control over this special effect makes it exciting because you execute this photo miracle at the precise moment you push the shutter button.

Ghosting. This is what this special effect is called; accomplished by using your SLR's multiple exposure feature, but with a simple twist to ensure proper film exposure. The procedure detailed in this article is different from the instructions in your SLR manual. Ghosting is perfect for pictures involving subjects in motion, taken when the camera and the background is stable (not moving) and the subjects move through, around, or across the frame. I have had great success using this effect when photographing people moving about an historic site or children as they scamper over rocks. I have also used this effect for weddings and sports shoots.

Example: In one wedding photograph, the groom stood still at the bottom of stone steps to an historic dwelling, his hand extended towards his bride, who slowly moved down the steps toward her groom. My six deliberate 'clicks' of the shutter created an airy, surreal picture of the wedding couple.

Depending on the speed of the moving subjects, the shutter can be held down in rapid fire mode or each exposure can be meticulously choreographed:

1) each subject deliberately positioned in the frame,

2) one 'click' of the shutter, and

3) repeat steps 1 and 2 to the total number of multiple exposures you set in your camera.

So what are the mechanics of this "through the lens" shot to achieve the ghosting effect?

1. Stabilize the camera - using a tripod is best, a stable surface is a second option or, a steady hand as a last resort;

2. Set number of multiple exposures you require for the frame to (N) - usually 1 to 9;

3. For the roll of film in your SLR, determine the film speed (S);

4. Reset the camera film speed (Yes, you can override the setting) to (N × S) or, if not an exact match, set it to the absolute closest speed ((N × S) ± adjustment);

5. Take your picture, depressing the shutter button for a total count equalling the number of camera exposures you set in step "2".

Example:

1. You want 6 exposures on the frame (N=6) so set the number of multiple exposures to '6';

2. You've determined the film speed is 200 (S=200);

3. Reset the camera film speed to '1200' (= 200 × 6);

4. Depress the shutter button 6 times (for 6 exposures).

REMEMBER: Check and reset the SLR film speed and number of exposures to their original settings before continuing with your next shot. Some SLRs will automatically reset the number of exposures back to '1' before advancing the film to the next frame. It's always better to verify this.

There are no special instructions for developing your film. Normal developing at the rated film speed will ensure the picture is properly exposed and developed - simple and beautiful. This is photo art!

Carl Chesal is a business development consultant, trainer, photographer, and avid snowmobiler. He owns Bizfare Enterprise Inc.(http://www.bizfare.ca) and Foursight Marketing and Consulting (http://www.foursight.on.ca) providing business, marketing, and internet marketing consulting services. He also co-operates, with his wife, a number of e-commerce web-sites, MyLeatherExpressions.com, CoolComfortWear.com and PewterExpressions.com, which sell custom leather bags, casual apparel and pewter collectibles.

Five Questions To Ask When Choosing Laminating Roll Film

If you are having a difficult time figuring out what laminating roll film is right for your laminator and your job, you are not alone. Almost every day I receive calls from individuals looking to find the right roll laminating film. However, choosing laminating film really doesn't need to be that hard. Here are five simple questions that you can ask yourself when choosing roll laminate. By answering these questions you will be able to determine the roll film that you need.

1. What width of laminating film do you need? Of course you are going to be limited by the size of your laminator. Most school laminators will handle laminating film that is up to 25" or 27". Check your laminator and see what size it can handle and then consider the items that you are going to be laminating. If you are just going to be laminating letter sized documents you might want to consider 12" laminating film or choose 25" film and feed two at a time. Don't worry so much about length at this point since your answers to the rest of the questions below will most likely dictate the lengths of the rolls available to you.

2. What thickness of laminating film do you need? After you have selected the appropriate width of film, the next step is to choose the right thickness of your film. Laminating roll film is available in 1.5mil, 1.7mil, 3mil, 5mil, 7mil and 10mil. Depending on your application you will need to choose one of these options. Schools most commonly use 1.5mil film to laminate teaching materials, posters and visuals. However, if you are looking for more ridgitity or your document is going to be handled a lot you might consider choosing a heavier guage of film. Remember to check your laminator to make sure that it can handle the thickness of film that you choose. A lot of school laminators are only capable of laminating documents with 1.5, 1.7 and 3.0mil film.

3. What core size do you need? The next question to answer deals with the cardboard roll that the laminating film is wrapped around. Some laminators use 1" cores, some use 2-1/4" cores and some use 3" cores. More than likely your laminator will use a 1" or 2-1/4" core unless you have a wide format commercial laminator. However, the easiest way to check is to measure the core size of the film that is already on your machine (or check your users manual).

4. What texture of film do you want? The two most common textures for laminating film are gloss and matte. Most users choose gloss film since it is less expensive. However, matte film is great for applications where there is a lot of glare or where the finished document needs to be written on. If you have a machine that has either a 2-1/4" or a 3" core you will have lots of other choices in laminating films and textures. Most of these other textures will be suited to specific commercial laminating applications.

5. What length of film do you need? The reason why this question is left to last is that depending on your answers to the previous questions there is a good chance that you won't get a choice in the length. Most of the time by the time that you choose all of the other options, the film that you need will only be available in one length. However, if there are multiple lengths available it is important not to choose a roll that is too long for your machine. If a roll is too long, the outside diameter of the roll will be too big to fit on your machine and you won't be able to use it.

These five simple questions should help you choose the right laminating film for your laminator. These questions should be adequate for most users. Try asking yourself these questions next time you need to buy laminating film and see if it works for you.

About the Author

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for
MyBinding.com
. He has written over 100 articles on
laminators
,
laminating supplies
,binding machines,binding supplies,binding covers,and more.

How do you know if a roll of film has been used?

Talking ordinary camera film here.
The tabby thing is sticking out, which is how they come new, but could that happen with a used roll also? I know used ones are usually wound tight, and the end is inside, but it's been banging around in a drawer for a while.
I don't want to go and use it if there may be pics on it.

Thanks for any help with this somewhat meaningless question!

In comparison to your memories, film is cheap. Develop it and see. If it has been knocking around in a drawer, it could be old and have a color shift or light leak anyway and not be very good. The new pictures you are creating deserve the best chance of looking good with fresh film.
On the other hand, ask yourself "Do I feel lucky?" and then shoot. You might get lucky. Your new pictures might come out or you might end up with some interesting double exposures. I wouldn't use the film for anything really important.

The short answer to your question is that you must develop the film to know if it has been exposed to light. Once developed, it can no longer be used to capture pictures.

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