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Shutter Speed
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We all love to pick up the camera and start clicking away. In most cases, we never give much thought to what's happening inside the camera to produce the actual image. In reality, most people probably don't care. But just in case you are curious or would like to use your camera in the manual mode rather automatic, read on.

The way an image comes out is determined by the exposure. Exposure determines if the image is just right, too dark, or too light. (depending on the viewer)

Three factors determine the exposure. They are shutter speed, aperture setting, and ISO setting. These are pretty technical things, but I will explain it in the simplest terms that I can.

Shutter Speed: This determines how long the camera sensor is exposed to light. That is determined by the length of time the shutter stays open. The time the shutter stays open is expressed in fractions of a second. For instance, a shutter speed of 1/125 means the shutter will stay open for 125th of a second and then close. A speed of 1/30 means the shutter will open for 1 30th of a second.

The Aperture: This is an opening which decides the quantity of light reaching the sensor. The size of the aperture opening will vary depending on the setting. Aperture settings are expressed as f stops. A very small aperture opening would be set maybe for f16 or f11. A large opening which would allow a lot more light to reach the sensor would be set at perhaps f2.8 or f4. (there are other settings in between)

ISO setting: Again, this is how sensitive the sensor will be to the light. For instance, on a sunny day, the camera can be set to a low ISO to get good exposures. ISO 100 is pretty normal for that situation. However, an hour before dusk, the strength of the light has weakened and the sensor setting will have to be changed to may ISO 400 to get a good exposure. Remember the sensor can pick up more light at higher ISO settings like ISO 400 or ISO 800.

Ok, let's wrap it up. These three thing work together to make an exposure. You can change any one of them to alter the image. If you have all three set to give you a great exposure, changing any one will require changing another to get the same exposure. For instance if you make the aperture opening smaller, you will need to keep the shutter open for a longer amount of time to adjust. (that is to get the same exposure). Luckily, most cameras will make these adjustments automatically. But many cameras will give you the option to juggle with the settings as you please.

I don't want to get too technical. At least now you know a little about whats happening before you press the shutter.

This was just a brief overview. A lot more technical stuff could be involved but I hope this helped.

For more info: awesomepics.info

betterpicsbyu.blogspot.com

How to Master Shutter Speed in Low Light Situation

With today's enormous variety of fully-automated digital cameras it can often be difficult to capture low-light indoor and action photos that are pleasing and successful. For example, pictures from a recent indoor family gathering might be full of red-eyed friends and relations and clusters of people brilliantly over lit by the flash. So, how does a photographer avoid this?

It requires the consideration of a few factors and settings on the camera to overcome some of the typical challenges of low-light photography. The first things to consider are the automatic features on a digital camera. Today's cameras want to help people take pictures with as little photographic skill or knowledge as possible, but the settings at work in the automatic cameras are not always suitable to each situation. For instance, if someone sets their digital camera to one of its automatic functions, such as motion or sports imagery, the camera may work to adjust the aperture to get enough light into the camera's sensor, but it will also slow down the shutter speed, rendering the image blurry.

Luckily, many cameras allow their users to go to a fully manual mode, meaning the photographer can set the shutter speed, f-stop and ISO. What do these settings mean? For any discussion of low-light photography the shutter speed is basically the way of allowing the camera to capture the action clearly, meaning that it will have to be as fast as possible to catch the image, but also slow enough to allow in adequate lighting. This is helped by adjusting the f-stop, which is the setting on the lens that allows enough light to reach the sensor. Additionally the ISO, what used to be called "film speed" for traditional photography, can allow for faster shutter speeds, but introduces something called "noise" into an image.

Noise is basically defined as the ability to distinguish the dots or pixels that make up the photograph, which is an undesirable effect in photographs. Adjusting the ISO is usually not recommended, but no discussion of photography would be complete without the recommendation for experimentation with settings on a camera in order to determine the results. Unfortunately, most modern digital cameras also create "noise" in their images with slower shutter speeds as well.

So, how do you take a good low-light photograph? There are many things a photographer can do to capture images in low lighting and the first is to make adjustments to shutter speed to see if this helps. The next recommendation is to work with a tripod if possible to allow for reduced camera shake; try adjusting the aperture to allow as much light inside the camera, and finally experiment.

About the Author

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what is the rule regarding the minimum shutter speed necessary to handhold a camera?

Is it the maximum focal length of the lens being used? Say for a 17-55mm lens, what is the minimum shutter speed necessary to handhold? 1/55 of a second?

The old rule was that for 135mm lens, you needed at least 1/125 of a second. For each focal length, your minimum shutter speed was supposed to match. You can imagine how difficult that would be with an 17mm, as you'd need around 1/25 or slower! With a zoom, you'd have to choose a 'safe' speed that matches the highest focal length, or change it constantly as you zoom.

Now, with VR technology, one can handhold much slower speeds. Also, with practice, you can do better with any lens.

I was able to be pretty steady at 1/25 when shooting in the 24-85mm range. But, when I got my Nikon 18-200mm VR, I found myself shooting at the 200mm end of the range, at only 1/4 of a second!

If you read here, you'll find too many people who are getting blurry pictures all the time and blaming it on the camera. Actually, it's because the photographer hasn't learned the best way to hold and use the camera. A good grip with the lens supported, elbows in, and a steady front-to-back stance does wonders.

I hope you find this helpful.

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