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All digital images are made from grids of tiny squares (pixels) with most cameras using anything from 2 to 12 million (or 2 to 12 Megapixels). When you print your images, the most important thing is that the pixels must be so small that they are invisible to the naked eye. This prevents the print looking like a pattern of tiny squares giving the dreaded "fuzzy" or "pixellated" appearance but just how small do the pixels need to be?

Print resolution is measured using pixels or points per inch (ppi). The higher the ppi, the smaller the individual pixels in the image and the less likely you are to see them and the sharper the print will be.

A 100 ppi print has 10,000 pixels per square inch, which means that there are 100 ppi horizontally, and 100 ppi vertically. The consensus is that for true photographic quality you need to be printing at around 200 ppi, which corresponds to 200 x 200 = 40,000 pixels per square inch. This guide is based on viewing the prints from a distance of around 18 inches - the average viewing distance. If you are going to hang a print on the wall however, you can get away with much lower resolutions as you will be viewing it from a greater distance.

Images taken with a digital camera have a fixed, maximum number of pixels dependent on the CCD sensor chip of the camera. If your camera has a 5MP (5 million pixels) model you can easily work out the maximum print size by using the relationship:

Print size = number of pixels divided by the print resolution

So for a 5 million-pixel image at 200ppi (40,000 pixels per square inch) the maximum print area is:

5 Mp = 5,000,000 divided by 40,000 = 125 square inches, or roughly 10 x12 inches.

Similarly, we can calculate other sizes

3Mp = 3,000,000 divided by 40,000 = 75 square inches or roughly 10 x 8 inches

4 Mp = 4,000,000 divided by 40,000 = 100 square inches or roughly 10 x 10 inches.

6 Mp = 6,000,000 divided by 40,000 = 150 square inches or roughly 10 x 15 inches

8 Mp =8,000,000 divided by 40,000 = 200 square inches or roughly 12 x 16 inches.

If you have Adobe Photoshop or Photoshop Elements or a similar program you can see all this worked out for you. Click on "Image" from the main menu and then on "resize image" and make sure the 'resample image' option is not ticked (click on it if it is ticked) and you will be shown the maximum print size that corresponds to your image.

Many people wonder why everyone quotes a recommended print resolution of 150-300 ppi when their inkjet printer has a maximum resolution of 2880 dpi or even higher. The reason is a simple one. Inkjet printers use tiny dots of ink in three, four, six or more colours to reproduce all the colours necessary to achieve a vast range of colours using complex 'dithering' patterns.

These dots are incredibly small. For example at 2880 dpi, there are over eight million dots in each square inch of the print. However, more than one dot is required to represent a single pixel, which is why printer resolution is dots per inch and print resolution is pixels per inch.

Now that you know how it all works, you will know how to determine the maximum print size you can achieve without running the risk of producing "fuzzy" prints.

If you like being able to make very large prints, it will also help you to decide the Megapixel value of your next camera. So if you like to regularly produce 12 x 16 inch prints that look fabulous, you may decide to purchase an 8 Megapixel model.

My name is Peter Martin Jones and I enjoy computing and photography in both film and digital formats.

If you would like to look at a completely free book on digital photography and other freebies, then you may like to visit my web site at;

http://www.picturememory.co.uk

The book covers everything from choosing a camera through editing your images to scanning your old film negatives and slides and uploading your image files to the internet. Everything you need to know for successful digital photography.

The book is based on my experience as a photographer and the many questions I have been asked by people who find some aspects of digital photography confusing or who simply want more information.

Choosing the Correct Core Size for your Laminating Roll Film

When you go to buy new laminating roll film for your laminator one of the first questions that you will be asked is “what core size do you need?” If you are lost already, don’t worry, you are not alone. This article will help you understand what a “core” is as it pertains to laminating roll film. It will also help you understand the different types of core sizes that are commonly used and will provide you with some guidelines for choosing the right core size to fit with your roll laminator.

By this point, you are probably wondering what a “core” is as it pertains to laminating roll film. Simply put, the core is the cardboard roll that the laminating film is wrapped around. During the manufacturing process, laminating film is spun onto the rolls in the correct length and width with a specific amount of tension. Depending on what laminator you have, and the type of laminating film you need the core size may be different. However the most important thing to consider is what core sizes can your laminator handle. Here are the three most common sizes used in the marketplace…

1. Most roll laminators used in schools and libraries are 25” or 27” wide and have a one inch core. These laminators are designed to be easy to use and are often operated by teachers or school secretaries. These machines are the easiest laminators to operate and usually do not offer any flexibility in core sizes.

2. Some medium volume laminators used in schools and print shops will use a 2-1/4” core. These machines are usually a little bit higher end and will often have the ability to run heavier laminating films and possibly even do mounting. Some of these machines will have the ability to use either a 2-1/4” core size or a 1” core size using special adapters.

3. Most wide format laminators and heavy duty commercial laminating machines use a 3” core. A lot of the specialty laminating films that are available on the market are only available on a 3” core. These laminators are capable of handling longer rolls of laminating film and are designed for professional print shops and wide format applications.

Well, now that you know about the three different core sizes that are available on the market, you are probably wondering how you can tell what size of core your laminator needs. Apart from looking in the manual (who would ever do that J), the easiest way to determine the correct core size for your laminator is to measure the core of the film that is currently loaded on the laminator. Simply take your ruler and measure the outside diameter of the cardboard core that the film is wrapped around. Now you are ready to choose the thickness, length and width of your film. We will save that for another article though.

About the Author

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on laminators, laminating supplies,binding machines,binding supplies and more.

What is the difference between 120 size and 220 size film?

got a mamiya and it has a 220 size back. not too familiar with medium format cameras...

120 and 220 are essentially the same film, but the 220 has twice as many frames.

220 film is hard to find, and it's also harder to develop because it won't fit on a normal reel in a normal tank.

It would be worthwhile for you to find a 120 back for your camera.

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