Finder Manual
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Finder Manual
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Photographing butterflies requires patience while waiting for that right opportunity to come along; have your camera ready to go, kick back and enjoy the beautiful flowers until it does. Having your own flower garden to attract butterflies is the best place, in my opinion, to capture your pictures. It's convenient, away from crowds and, I believe, butterflies feel at ease with your presence after a short time when they know you mean no harm thus allowing you to stand just inches away from them. Nature parks are also places to get good shots of butterflies and so are butterfly gardens which usually have a large variety of species from around the world.
The only equipment I use is a digital camera. The two most important features of a camera for photographing a butterfly, your subject, is a high optical zoom (don't confuse this with digital zoom - in my opinion, digital zoom produces a poor quality picture) and macro mode (with macro mode you can focus in clearly with your lense just inches away from your subject). Both features allow you to close in on your subject sharply and will blur the background, eliminating distractions, thus drawing one's attention to the butterfly's eye-catching designs and colors.
When photographing butterflies, be creative and bring your pictures to life. Use different angles. Shoot from the front, sides and back of your subject. Shoot at eye level or try an upward shot. Catch the butterflies in different poses. Shoot when they are in flight or flapping their wings. Experiment. If your camera offers manual controls, use a slow shutter speed to blur the movement and a fast shutter speed to freeze it. If you can't adjust your shutter speed, the more light in your picture the faster your speed will be. If the opportunity allows, look at your subject and background closely through the view finder before clicking. Sometimes just moving your lens a tad bit will make a big difference in how your picture turns out.
Lighting is another way of bringing your pictures to life. The best time of the day to shoot is when the sun is not harsh, such as in the early morning and in the evening but don't let this stop you from shooting on a sunny afternoon though. Try taking a picture with the sun behind your subject. This will give a wonderful silhouette look to your picture. Flashes can have a benefit or two, but I don't use one. I feel nature's light is the best!
Practice makes perfect. Take a lot of pictures. More than half of mine are deleted (great thing about digital cameras). When you spot a butterfly in the distance, I suggest taking a picture where you are, step a little closer (slowly and quietly), take another picture and so on until you get that perfect close-up or the butterfly flies away. A lot of times the first picture you take may be good enough to crop. It won't be a large size but it will always be a memory to hold onto.
Diana Cooper specializes in nature and wildlife photography, flowers and butterflies as favorites. You can view her photos at [http://www.dianasphotography.com] or purchase framed prints and other gift items of her photos at her shop [http://www.cafepress.com/dianasphotos]
Lowrance X136 DF Fish Finder Features and Tip
Lowrance X136 DF Features
The Lowrance X136 DF Pro-Grade Sonar is a top notch fish finder. Its dual frequency transducer, with depth penetration up to 2500 feet and sturdy waterproof casing, makes it an excellent choice for saltwater fishing or down rigger tracking. It is sturdy enough to stand up to the saltwater elements and allows you to see to deep depths. Its 16 level gray scale monitor also allows for easy sonar reading and will greatly assist in locating and identifying fish.
The Lowrance X136 DF fish finder also comes standard with ASP (Advanced Signal Processing) and depth alarms. ASP allows the fisherman to filter out noise interference from avenues such as boat speed, water conditions, air bubbles and even vibration from the engine. The filtering lets you see the fish clearly so that you can use your skill to catch them. The built in depth alarms allow you to focus on fishing rather than worrying about whether you are too shallow or even too deep. The depth alarms are easy to set and use. Simply set a shallow alarm for whatever depth you feel is too shallow- even as shallow as 5 or 10 feet. On the other end set the deep alarm to what is too deep for you- maybe the fish finder’s maximum depth penetration of 2500 feet. Now let the fish finder do the work for you. If the depth of the water is ever outside the ranges you have set, the alarm will sound and you can quickly and easily make adjustments.
The Lowrance X136 has many other great features which are detailed in the owner’s manual which comes standard with every unit purchased. This model will truly make it easy for any fisherman to find fish and focus solely on their skills for catching the fish.
Lowrance X136 DF Tip
Many Lowrance fish finders come standard with a patented Fish Symbol system called Fish I.D. The Fish I.D system is an excellent way for novice fish finder users to recognize fish-like signal returns on the sonar display. However, Fish I.D. does have its limitations. The microprocessor in the system can be fooled by other submerged objects and report them as fish. Once you become comfortable with your new fish finder it is recommended that you use Full Sonar Mode and learn how to interpret fish arches effectively. Even after you are an expert at fish arches though, you may want to use Fish I.D. when you are in another part of the boat of working with something that keeps you from watching the screen. In these situations using the Fish I.D. functionality can be very useful as it comes with audible fish alarms. By using the fish alarms you will know when a fish passes under the boat by the noise emitted from your Lowrance fish finder.
About the Author
Karen Janos is an expert on fish finders. When she is not fishing she is the webmaster for http://www.fishfindersdirect.com.
Focus using Manual Controls?
I need assistance trying to figure out how to get the best focus with my Nikon D40 when using manual controls? I just bought my first monolight and strobe kit and I am finding in dark rooms it's hard to get a sharp focus? Is there a device that will help? Do I need another light to illuminate so I can better see through the view finder? Any reccomended books to help me with this? My first wedding is in August and I am panicked. Thanks
Manual focus on the D40 is hard because the screen doesn't "snap" into focus like the old manual focus film SLRs. This is because the D40 was designed to be primarily used as an autofocus camera. With today's variable aperture zoom lenses and a pentamirror system, the D40 viewfinder is also darker than cameras using wider aperture lenses ("faster lenses") and true pentaprisms.
First, make sure your AF assist lamp on the D40 is active. That should automatically come on and it's quite bright and will allow you to focus in dark rooms. Push menu, select the pencil and then menu option 9. Make sure AF assist is "ON".
Next, for right now, try AF focusing, rather than manual focusing. With the AF assist light, it should work for any sort of work that's reasonably close. In the custom menu setting (the pencil again), select single area focusing. Use the center focus point, which is usually the most sensitive. You can lock focusing by putting the center area where you want it focused, then pushing the release part-way and holding it when you hear the beep (and the image should look in focus (focus on the eyes!)), then recomposing while keeping the release pressed partway. This will lock the autofocus on where you had it aimed.
In your menu (pencil setting again), menu item 2, choose AF-A or AF-S. If the subject is moving AF-A or AF-C works. When stopped, AF-A or AF-S will both work. AF-S will lock the focus, which is really important for the single focus-point / recompose method.
For your monolights--use the modeling lights! You might need an additional light if the AF assist and modeling lights aren't enough.
Finally, if none of those things work, try a different lens with a wider aperture (example, the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8), which lets in more light making it easier for the AF system and for manual focusing.
And get your practice done now and iron out the kinks before August!
Secret Motorola Droid Shadow Found in Gym
The latest in lost prototype phones: a Motorola Droid Shadow has reportedly surfaced in the wild. Motorola - Motorola Droid - Droid - Smartphone - Android
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