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For those of us who use a compact digital camera for "casual" purposes, we've had the experience of setting up our shot, getting our subjects just where we want them, and then presto; the resulting image shows the top of the head or an arm missing from the scene.

What occurs in these instances is a frustrating phenomenon known as "parallax error". Stated simply, it is the result of the camera having one lens through which the camera focuses and records images and another lens through which the photographer views the scene to be shot. The two views are not identical and thus, the image that results is not always as we envisioned it through the viewfinder. This error is most pronounced when shooting at close range; such as in most "portrait" type shots.

Even those of us who are amateurs can avoid "parallax error" by one of just a few methods.

o Use the correction marks. Many digital cameras provide lines that can be seen through the viewfinder which approximate the border of the image being taken to visualize what the lens is truly seeing. The photographer then needs to adjust the shot as necessary. Reading the owners manual will reveal whether a given camera has this feature.

o Use the LCD to frame the shot. The LCD screen better represents the image that the picture-taking lens is seeing. There are limitations however with this method. First, the LCD screen is sometimes difficult to view in bright, outdoor light making it difficult to use in such situations. Secondly, the LCD screen on many digital cameras displays only 85% of what the lens sees which can result in more of a scene being captured versus less The final drawback is simply the extra energy required to operate the LCD. An electronic viewfinder is another option. An EVF takes the image captured by the lens and electronically transfers it onto a display screen.

o Consider the purchase of a digital camera with a TTL mechanism. The parallax error occurs with any TLR (twin lens) camera but not those with a TTL mechanism (through-the-lens). With TTL, the photographer views a scene through the same lens that records the image and is thus able to frame a scene accurately. SLR (single lens reflex) cameras use TTL. These cameras however, are considerably more expensive, bulky and complicated than a compact or traditional point and shoot type camera although for an avid amateur the additional control they offer to the photographer is a tremendous asset.

For the average consumer, a compact or point-and-shoot camera is the product of choice due to their portability and ease of use. Even with these more basic models, use of the correction marks or the LCD screen to frame shots taken at close range can help to significantly reduce any parallax error. For others who may want more creative control and don't mind a larger and more complicated camera, an SLR camera can eliminate parallax error altogether.

The author, Christine Peppler, encourages readers to visit her website for more information about using and selecting a camera or other home electronics device.

Remote Camera

Necessary items

The general list of items that are necessary to set-up and use a remote camera are:

1. A camera with automatic film advance or motor drive

2. Mounting hardware

3. Safety cables

4. Triggering units and cables

5. Gaffer tape & black wrap

Uses and practices

Remote cameras are used by photographers to make more pictures and from different angles. Remotes are very popular in sports and wildlife photography.

Cameras are often placed in angles that a photographer cannot physically be during a shoot. Sport use examples include behind the backboard at a basketball game or overhead in the rafters of an arena during a hockey game.

Placement

Remote cameras that placed in suspended positions usually are mounted with clamps and arms such as the Bogen Super Clamp and Variable Friction Arm, often referred to as "Magic Arms". The camera and lens are connected to the variable friction arm which is attached to the Super Clamp which in turn is secured to a fixed item such as a basketball post, hand railing, or rafter. Ground plates or tripods are typically used for remote cameras placed on the ground.

Triggering

Remote cameras can be fired via hand triggers, radio transmitters, or the self timer built into the camera.

For remotes that are in close proximity to the photographer, hand triggers can be used. A hand trigger consists of a button or switch that is connected to the camera via a wire that is set to fire the camera's shutter.

For remotes that are placed away from the photographer, radio triggering systems such as Pocket Wizards or Flash Wizards are used. A radio trigger consists of a button or switch that is connected to a radio triggering transmitter or transceiver which is set to fire a radio triggering receiver or transceiver that is connected to the camera via a wire that is set to fire the camera's shutter.

For rocket launches, including the Space Shuttle, remote cameras are triggered by the sound of the launch.

Safety

The number one priority with remotes should be safety for other people during the shoot. Steel safety cables should be used to secure each part of the remote camera to a secure fixture. Safety cables are made of braided steel cord with steel carabiners on each end.

Game camera

The White-tailed deer is often the target of game camera users.

Another type of remote camera is the game camera or trail camera. It is a device that records images, either as a still photograph or a video. It is a rugged and weatherproof camera designed for extended and unmanned use outdoors. The images it produces are used for game surveillance by hunters.

Most cameras come with a strap that allows it to be hung from a tree and a lock to prevent theft. It will automatically take a picture when it senses motion. Each image is stamped with the date and time it was recorded. The game camera will usually function day and night by sensing game out to around 45 feet.

The first hunting trail monitor used heat sensing motion detectors to trigger a counter to count the number and record the time of animals passing by. The sensors are also known as passive infrared light sensors or PIR sensors. Normally, hunters are never around so they do not know what kind or size animal was being counted. Later, a camera was added. Game camera technology has evolved since then. Originally wildlife photography was only available by using film, but now there is a choice of film or digital cameras. The ability of game cameras to tell hunters where game is located is useful for pre-season scouting. The information tells hunters where to best place their blind or tree-stand. For digital cameras, all images are recorded onto a memory card, such as a commonly available SD card. This also allows hunters to conveniently transfer the images to a home computer or they can be viewed, copied and deleted by a Viewer in the field. More expensive units have the ability to wirelessly upload captured images to a computer or website without any user interference.

Types available

Digital - Produce digital pictures instead of film

Film - Instead of digital these cameras use film, usually 35mm

Laser aim - Produce a red light beam for aiming where the image location is to be taken from

Strobe flash - Incandescent flash that will usually reach out to 15 feet for nighttime images

IR - Sometimes available in addition to strobe flash or alone, for more stealth like performance

Sound producing - Game calls or sounds to attract any of a wide variety of animals, with sounding intervals adjustable from 1 to 24 hours

Technical details

Depending on how the camera is set up, a new photo can usually be taken every 30 seconds for as long as motion/heat events are detected. Some game cameras give the user a choice of settings for regular camera flash or stealth-like LED flash. LED flash enables the hunter to discretely image game in the night without a visible flash. This prevents the flash from giving away the hunters position in popular hunting areas. Some models have a manual switch to set an infrared filter for day or night mode.

Advantages of strobe flash cameras

Long range flash performance Some have a flash range of over 60 feet

High quality color images during both day and night makes animal identification easy

Completely freezes animal movement so there is never any nighttime motion blur

Disadvantages of strobe flash cameras

The flash may spook game

The flash can be noticed by other hunters

Cannot record night time videos

Advantages of IR cameras

Less likely to alarm an animal (as no visible light is generated)

Less likely to be noticed by other hunters

Disadvantages of IR cameras

Nighttime images are black and white and have less detail and clarity

Infrared Flash quality/range tradeoff: If the Infrared flash is designed for maximum range the images may be overly white, or blur. If the Infrared flash is designed for best image quality, range will be sacrificed.

See also

Types

Digital camera

Infrared photography

Movie camera

Film format

Video camera

Brands

Bushnell Corporation

Cuddeback

Leaf River

Moultrie

Predator

Reconyx

Stealth

Trail-Pod

Wildview

Other uses of the game camera

Game cameras are also used by Bigfoot research groups and enthusiasts making an effort to capture a photo of the legendary creature.

References

^ http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/1429

^ a b c "Bushnell Corporation Trail Cameras". http://www.bushnell.com/products/trail-cameras/. Retrieved 2009-09-12. 

^ a b c d Non Typical Inc. 860 Park Lane, Park Falls WI 54552, Trail Cameras

^ BFRO Bigfoot Field Research Organization 11-04-09

^ $1,000,000 dollar Sasquatch photo challenge Field & Stream 05-29-08

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Photography

Technical terms

Angle of view  Aperture  Circle of confusion  Color temperature  Depth of field  Depth of focus  Exposure  Exposure compensation  F-number  Film format  Film speed  Focal length  Hyperfocal distance  Metering mode  Perspective distortion  Photograph  Photographic printing  Photographic processes  Reciprocity  Red-eye effect  Science of photography  Shutter speed  Zone system

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Techniques

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Composition

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Equipment

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History

Autochrome Lumire  Calotype  Daguerreotype  Dufaycolor  Heliography  Timeline of photographic technology

Digital photography

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Photographic processing

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Other topics

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List of photographers  List of most expensive photographs  Portal  WikiProject

Categories: Cameras | Photography equipment | Optical devicesHidden categories: All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from November 2009
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On a Lubitel, to what distance do the distances on the lens refer?

I have a Lubitel Universal; a TLR. The focusing involves looking thru a little magnifying glass to focus; super annoying. I'm considering trying to focus just using distance to subject. So the question is, do those distances refer to the distance between the subject and the lens, or between the subject and the film?

Using the ground glass with a magnifier is a much more accurate way to focus your camera, annoying or not.

The distances refer to the distance from the focal plane (a "o" with a line through it) of the camera to the subject, but are NEVER accurate enough to depend upon for accurate focus. Only focusing on the ground glass will assure a good focus.

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