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Tlr Twin
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If you're somewhat new to camera terminology, SLR means Single Lens Reflex. The acronym SLR refers to a camera that has a single lens -- as opposed to a twin lens -- and uses a mirror to reflect light from the lens up to the eyepiece for viewing -- as opposed to viewing the image through a rangefinder or directly from a piece of ground glass as in a view camera.

View cameras such as the Linhof, Twin lens reflex cameras such as the Roleiflex, and rangefinder models such as the Leica all had their day, but it was the SLR that most serious photographers carried from the 1960's into the digital age. The SLR's ability to take a wide range of interchangeable lenses from extreme wide-angles to powerful telephotos and to be adaptable to a variety of accessories, that include microscopes and telescopes, made them the camera of choice among both hobbyists and professionals for decades.

As with the view camera, the SLR image is viewed on ground glass, though not directly. The mirror projects what the lens sees onto ground glass. So what you see in the eyepiece or viewfinder of an SLR is what you get, not something that's just close to what you see, as with a TLR or rangefinder, where what you see is either above or to the left of what you get. While the approximation might not matter very much for distant subjects, it does make a vast difference when working closer to your subject, and not, for example, cutting off your subject's head in the photograph.

Like the SLR the Digital SLR (DSLR) uses single, interchangeable lenses and mirror to eyepiece image transmission. In fact, the original DSLR's were simply SLR's that made a digital back available for their existing line of lenses. However, instead of capturing photographs on film, the DSLR uses light sensing chips to capture the image and a digital memory card on which to record it.

SLR's and DSLR's are better than point and shoot cameras in many ways. The high-end interchangeable lenses, made to satisfy pros, produce sharper pictures with better resolution. SLR's and DSLR's can also be focused faster and with ISO speed settings be used under low lighting conditions. With SLR's and DSLR's shutter speeds and depth of field can be more easily controlled to create a desired effect. There are some trade-offs, however, since SLR's and DSLR's are heavier and cost more.

Before buying a DSLR, you might want to consider how it will be used and if your use will warrant the additional expense. Almost any professional use might qualify, as would a variety of special uses where a typical point-and-shoot camera would not do the job.

Larry Stepanowicz is long-time photographer and author of photo business guides. Visit his Photo Lines Store to find just what you want in a new or used digital or film camera, at prices that can't be beat.

Digital Cameras - What you See is not Always What you Get

For those of us who use a compact digital camera for "casual" purposes, we've had the experience of setting up our shot, getting our subjects just where we want them, and then presto; the resulting image shows the top of the head or an arm missing from the scene.

What occurs in these instances is a frustrating phenomenon known as "parallax error". Stated simply, it is the result of the camera having one lens through which the camera focuses and records images and another lens through which the photographer views the scene to be shot. The two views are not identical and thus, the image that results is not always as we envisioned it through the viewfinder. This error is most pronounced when shooting at close range; such as in most "portrait" type shots.

Even those of us who are amateurs can avoid "parallax error" by one of just a few methods.

• Use the correction marks. Many digital cameras provide lines that can be seen through the viewfinder which approximate the border of the image being taken to visualize what the lens is truly seeing. The photographer then needs to adjust the shot as necessary. Reading the owners manual will reveal whether a given camera has this feature.

• Use the LCD to frame the shot. The LCD screen better represents the image that the picture-taking lens is seeing. There are limitations however with this method. First, the LCD screen is sometimes difficult to view in bright, outdoor light making it difficult to use in such situations. Secondly, the LCD screen on many digital cameras displays only 85% of what the lens sees which can result in more of a scene being captured versus less The final drawback is simply the extra energy required to operate the LCD. An electronic viewfinder is another option. An EVF takes the image captured by the lens and electronically transfers it onto a display screen.

• Consider the purchase of a digital camera with a TTL mechanism. The parallax error occurs with any TLR (twin lens) camera but not those with a TTL mechanism (through-the-lens). With TTL, the photographer views a scene through the same lens that records the image and is thus able to frame a scene accurately. SLR (single lens reflex) cameras use TTL. These cameras however, are considerably more expensive, bulky and complicated than a compact or traditional point and shoot type camera although for an avid amateur the additional control they offer to the photographer is a tremendous asset.

For the average consumer, a compact or point-and-shoot camera is the product of choice due to their portability and ease of use. Even with these more basic models, use of the correction marks or the LCD screen to frame shots taken at close range can help to significantly reduce any parallax error. For others who may want more creative control and don't mind a larger and more complicated camera, an SLR camera can eliminate parallax error altogether.

About the Author

The author, Christine Peppler, has written extensively on the topic of home electronics including buying and using a digital camera on her homemedias.info website.

About TLR film?

I just bought a Twin lens reflex camera and i don't know what size film it takes, it's vintage dont know if that makes any difference, does anyone know? Also where would i buy the film for it and where would i get it developed?

It almost definately takes 120 (medium format film), though I can't say for sure without knowing the make/model.

120 can generally be bought at a camera store. I don't mean best buy or wal-mart. I mean a place like Ritz, or Wolf. (Actually both owned by the same company.) Although I usually order mine at

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=FetchChildren&Q=&ci=7224

because they have a larger selection than you're likely to find at a store. (Unless it's a BIG store)

You can get it developed at most dedicated camera stores as well. Most of them will not develop it on site though. They'll send it to a pro lab and charge you the same price as the pro lab would charge you had you dropped it off yourself. (The pro lab will cut them a discount so that the local store makes a profit. That way they both benifit because the pro lab gets more business.)

If you live in a metropolitan area, you can probably find a place that does it on site. (I'm lucky enough to have three) Or you can also do it by mail at

www.DR5.com

or

http://www.protekcolorlab.com/

If you're gonna mail it though I have some advice.

1)Mark the box "FILM DO NOT X-RAY" on all sides

2)You will be tempted to mail several rolls at a time to save on shipping. Thats fine. Just make sure you put your exposed film in the FREEZER until you have enough rolls to ship. Once exposed, film (especially color) begins to loose image quality at an alarming rate. Freezing will slow this process.

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