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I've been using the Evolt E510 Olympus SLR camera for about a month now, and I wanted to share my impressions and evaluations to help those who are planning on getting a digital SLR camera of their own. If you're planning on getting a dSLR, make sure you think carefully before buying one because these cameras don't come cheap. If all you intend to do is point and shoot in Auto mode, perhaps you might want to consider other high-quality, high-resolution digital cameras. But if you're looking for top-notch image quality in terms of color and ISO, a digital SLR camera is the way to go.

Digital SLR cameras are meant to be explored and used in different settings and speed. If you want to maximize the use of your expensive dSLR, I suggest you get interchangeable lens and go for models that have a dynamic range. You should also be willing to invest time on taking different shots using different settings under different conditions. Unless you choose the right settings for the shots you take, images taken using a dSLR may not necessarily yield extraordinary results.

Most of the complaints I've read about the Evolt E510 revolve around focusing and exposure. This is why I can't stress enough the importance of familiarizing yourself with how your camera works, such as which focusing modes and metering would work best with the shots you take. You also have to know whether to shoot shutter priority or aperture priority, and shadow or high-key area. All that said, here are some of the features of the Olympus Evolt E510 that I like:

I like that I can get come up with sharp shots with stabilized lenses and at 1/30 when I use focals of 300mm in 35mm equivalent. The Evolt E510's high ISO, up to 800, is totally usable though it has little noise reduction. You can also try ISO 1600 if you want to get better image results. Another wonderful thing about the camera is that even with the noise filter turned off, the images come out with excellent color and sharpness. The Supersonic Wave Filter or SSWF is also an effective dust-buster. I change lenses a lot and yet I never saw a single peck of dust on the sensor. Even in drive mode, the Evolt E510 has a shooting speed of 3 frames a second.

Although there are still some features that I wish the Evolt E510 had, it still makes for a great camera especially for amateur and semi-pro photographers.

Getting the perfect SLR camera, is never an easy thing, especially with way digital technology is constantly changing. Fortunately, there are plenty of helpful websites online, that can narrow down your search and help you find the Olympus SLR camera with all the features important to you.

Recover Images from CF Card Using Cameras

If you use a camera using CF cards, you must be familiar with the fact that these storage media, in spite of their data safeguard technologies, are not always loss-proof in all conditions. Certain mishandling commitments can damage and corrupt the card making it inaccessible.

Once your card is inaccessible due to corruption, the images you store on them are practically irretrievable which is tantamount to saying that they are lost. Images lost from your camera in this way are normally considered lost forever. If you already have a backup file of these images, your computer's Backup utility may be your recovery solution. But if this is not the help, use some specially developed image recovery software .

Suppose, you accidentally switch your camera off while images on your card are being transferred to the computer. You are afraid if anything has gone wrong. But now, when you put your camera on and try to continue the transfer process, it turns out clear that there is not image visible on your camera. Your monitor rather shows you some error message telling you that your card is damaged, corrupted and needs reformatting. So, you are at a loss!

Cause:

If you improperly interrupt the active data transfer or read/write process of your camera data, it will certainly terminate the process improperly causing damage to the storage media. Thus the card having become unusable, the images on it are practically lost. And on the other hand CF cards being not part of the computer or camera, data lost from them do not go to any storage media of the computer or camera in visible or invisible form.

Solution:

There are two possible solutions. The first is the computer's Backup facility. This facility is usable to some satisfactory extent if you have a backup file made already of the images prior to their loss. To run this program you need to reformat your card first, too.

If a backup file is not available, or if Backup utility cannot help, use some magically powerful digital image recovery software. Such programs are written using the latest data recovery technologies to cater to the image recovery needs of the time.

Along this line, Stellar Phoenix Photo Recovery v3.2 recovers lost multimedia files of various formats from almost all storage media. Compatible with Windows and Apple Mac operating systems, this digital image recovery application saves the recovered data in a user-specified location keeping the originals intact.

About the Author

Simpson is expert in data recovery software field working as a freelancer with Stellar which offers data recovery software including ipod recovery , digital image recovery and photo recovery software .

Can you use cameras safely in cold weather?

I am going to Quebec to ski in March and I'm wondering if my Nikon D40 will be safe in the cold.

Hi Emily,

Hope you have fun skiing. I'm a skiing and photography nut, so I always have my DSLR with me on the slopes. I've been outdoors with it a lot on the Australian and New Zealand snow fields, and have always come away fine. Quebec is a lot colder, but the same principles apply.

Your main problems will be reduced battery life, and moisture.

Batteries rely on chemical reactions in order to produce electricity. Most chemical reactions will occur faster when it is warm, and will slow down as it gets colder. So a really cold camera battery may only provide a fraction of its full charge, or it may appear to be completely flat. It's pretty easy to quickly remove a battery from a D40, so the cold shouldn't be a big problem for you. Firstly, if you only own one battery for your camera, go out and buy another one. It's not too much hassle to carry a second small battery, and it can save you a lot of heartache. If you only carry the one battery, keep it out of the camera and stow it in an inside pocket of your ski jacket. That way it is right next to you, and will end up at a temperature pretty close to that of your body. When ever you want to take some photos, just slip it in. If you have two batteries, keep one in the camera and one in your jacket. The one in the camera may get cold, but your camera will be ready at all times. Once it starts to fail, swap the batteries around.

A D40 won't handle a lot of moisture, and there's drifts of it all around you, and inside you. One source you may not think of is condensation. This can kill your camera (or your mobile phone). When you take anything from a cold environment, to a warm moist one, beads of condensation will form all over and through it. So if you've had your camera or phone out in the snow for hours, whip it out to soon in your hotel room or restaurant, its going to get wet. At the least, the lens or viewfinder might just fog up, at worst there could be enough moisture to short circuit it. This is really easy to avoid. Try to stores your camera in a bag which is relatively waterproof (good idea at the snow anyway), then when you move inside make sure that your camera warms up close to room temperature before you take it out.

The same principle applies if you go anywhere with a hot and humid environment. You need to be careful moving from an air conditioned room or car to the outside air. Let it warm up in the bag first.

Condensation can also come from your breath, and if you breathe too heavily when taking photos, you will fog up your viewfinder, the back of your camera and maybe evenm your lens. So if you're taking a lot of shots at a time, just take shallow breaths, or wear a scarf wrapped around your mouth.

I find it really awkward to hold the camera and operate controls with my ski gloves on (and they are usually a bit wet), but of course if you take them off too long, your hands get bloody cold and don't work any more ( I don't think that would take long in Quebec). You can carry a second set of thin gloves for this. I go up into the mountains every season to take photos and ski, so I bought a pair of diving gloves. They're made of 3mm neoprene, and have synthetic suede palms. I only use them for the camera, so they stay dry, and keep my hands warm for about 15 minutes. Very easy to grip onto and use my camera and lenses.
You can buy these quite cheap from a dive store. You could also find them at outdoors and hunting stores, or stores which sell protective equipment and work clothing.

If you get snow in your bag, on your camera or lenses, try to brush it off immediately while it is still icey. I always carry a small hand towel in my back pack, so if I drop my camera, or it gets snow or water on it, I can dry it off quickly. Also, make a quick check of your back pack and camera bag before moving inside, that little patch of ice or snow could melt through your camera gear.

Taking photos in snow and ice is different technically, and can confuse your camera. Search the internet for tips on winter photography and learn how to use exposure compensation and white balance on your camera.

Have fun skiing!

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