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Zeiss Ikonta
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Review Panasonic DMC GF1K K

It's mostly a great camera. I was surprised when I learned that the flash doesn't work in the My Color (Retro, Dynamic Art, etc.) mode. If you're expecting to be able to make a Retro photo of a darker indoor scene, you're out of luck.

I am an 'old fart' and come from the now very old world of film cameras.

I grew up in 4x5 sheet film and still think 35mm format is a 'toy' .. But since I can no longer effectively use my old 120 roll film cameras like the Zeiss Super Ikonta and Hasses' what to do?

I am an amateur with my only requirement being to document my RV trips and the back-country 4WD adventures and the 'less than 5 mile' day hikes, so I may as well use one of these new fangled digital cameras.

I always thought my old Nikon F bodies were too heavy for the result they gave and now the new breed of 10 pound DSLRs are even worse yet. It's the same bad trade off today as it was in 1965, nothing has really changed. A ten pound mirror slapping monster with a one ounce result.

The GF1 is very much like my old M2 Leica rangefinder. It has all the benefits of the rangefinders, none of the SLR drawbacks. Faster than lightening to bring into play, very responsive, excellent fit and feel in the hand, and very well thought out in design and manufacture. A one pound camera with a ten pound result ! Rangefinder 35mm of this style and design are the ultimate 'candid' and street cameras, and they can not be beat on the trail unless you are hiking with a pack burro to help you along.

If you are looking for a modern camera that will do the job the old Leicas' did then this is the one for you. The lens and the sensor and the resultant image quality is excellent. You will have no problem up to 11x14 prints and perhaps beyond. I noticed in the excellent dpreview review of this camera that they have some minor moans and complaints about the JPEG engine in the camera. I do not agree with them on this point. If you set the 'my film' settings in the GF1 correctly you can get an almost indistinguishable color result against the RAW. Admittedly you loose some image information in the JPEG, and have to experiment a little with it, but once you develop a 'my film' profile for various standard shooting situations then you are good to go and save yourself the later workload of the RAW development.

The Japanese software that is supplied as a freebie with the camera is excellent, and very sophisticated. You will not have to buy $300 worth of junk from Adobe unless you want to. Once you get over the 'translation chuckles' of the various menu items in the software you will have a powerful tool in your hands. Admittedly there is a learning curve with any software of this complexity, but it is doable and is a significant value added bonus to the price of the camera.

When even the GF1 is too heavy for me to take on the trail, I pocket my Cannon S90. There is no comparison between the image quality of the Micro 4/3s and the little chip in the Cannon. It is the difference between night and day, apples and oranges. If you are one of those that are tired of the 'almost' image quality of your little pocket digital camera but do not want all the same old - same old SLR negatives, then I don't think you could do better than the GF1. Of course this Micro 4/3 world is just in it infancy and and you will probably watch the world pass you by a little as new cameras of this class are released over the next few years, but you will be taking great shots with it now, and having great fun as well.

If you are one that used to use, appreciated, and understood rangefinders like the old Leicas, and now watch, with disbelief, the endless profusion of so-called "pro grade DSLRs " pour out of Japan then you need to have a close look at the GF1. Only thing it is missing is the wind-lever under your thumb, but hey, you can't have everything.

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How Do I Use This Camera?

A Zeiss Ikonta 521/2 [?] has come into my possession and I could really do with some tips on how to use it!
Mainly on Exposure & Focusing.
I've found tables to do with exposure but really couldn't understand them.
The film is [120 B&W] 125 ASA.
Thank you!!

P.S. approx how much does it cost to get the film developed?
Ikonta C520/2

This might be of some help:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/zeiss_ikon.htm

Outside during a bright sunny day, with the film you are using, you would set the aperture ring to f/16 and your shutter speed to 1/125 (or as close as you can). Here is Sunny/16:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule

Without prints a roll of 120 film will cost around £3 to develop at a lab. Perhaps twice that if you decide to get prints too.

AUCTIONEER: CHUCK EATON October 2, 2010 9:00 am Elmwood Farm, West Fairlee, VT
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